March 8th, 2010, 18:26 hours
I wasn’t originally going to post this, but the end intermediate result turned out so well as to deem it worthwhile. In setting up the forward mount for the roof rack I had planned to pick up, I found out just how easy (and inexpensive) it is on a Discovery to add mounting space for antennas, lights, or whatever else you may want to add up on the roof. To make the bar, you’ll need:
- 1/4-inch x 3″ x 48″ aluminum flat bar is more than enough for antennas, consider 3/8 or 1/2-inch thick if you are going to add lights (or tweak as necessary for your needs)
- four 8mm-1.25 bolts with matching flat washers (double-check this if you have a pre-2004 Discovery)
- tape measure, a marker, a 4mm allen wrench, a drill with a 9mm (or 5/16ths) metal bit, a chop saw or even a hacksaw (aluminum is easy to cut), medium file (for rounding edges), fine-grit sandpaper
- mineral spirits, bedliner and appropriate brushes (I’ve had good luck with Rustoleum, Duplicolor came out awful)
Home Depot carries the bolts and washers, Metals Depot has great prices on the aluminum.
There are two threaded holes near the rear of each factory roof bar on a Discovery, these are intended for the OEM cross-bar accessory for which Land Rover charges ~$300. These holes are weight-bearing and designed to handle things like canoes, roof racks, and other cargo. They also make for quick-and-easy attachment points for home-built accessories. With the 4mm allen wrench, remove the two protective caps currently occupying these holes. Then grab your aluminum bar and start measuring. I suggest adding a curve to the aluminum bar as this will add strength and rigidity, and provide additional clearance for your antenna/light mounts.
The pictures are pretty self-explanatory. Measure twice and drill the holes in your aluminum bar, including the holes you’ll need for your accessories. Once that is done, test fit the bar with your lowest-hanging accessory and bolt it down so you can make sure nothing touches. At 48-inches, the aluminum flat bar will be within a couple inches of where it should be so you’ll only need to trim a little off the end. Measure and mark for the amount you wish to trim, then take the bar down and trim it. Double-check the fit, then use your file to round the corners and the leading edge of the bar (for aerodynamics). Sand it down all over with the fine-grit sandpaper, then rinse the bar well with mineral spirits and allow it to dry. Follow the instructions that came with your bedliner, and give it an extra day of dry time before attaching the bar. When the bar is completely dry and hardened, attach it and your accessories to the roof. Once everything is in place you can use a little extra bedliner to cover up the shiny bolts.
A Note on Wiring
There is only one clean way to run wires down off the roof, and that is to drill a hole. Despite the horror stories regarding such things, if done right there is no reason for this to cause any leaks or rattles. Where you place the hole is really a personal preference thing, but the location of the new antenna/light bar does happen to be right above a spot in the headliner that has ample room for wiring and an access panel to get at the roof. This panel can be found by sitting in the rear seats and looking up… it serves double-duty as a dome light. Pop the lens off of the light, then carefully pry the light housing out of the surrounding plastic. With the assembly out you are looking up at the bottom of the roof metal, right where the new roof bar is located. A little careful planning and some fish tape and you can finish up wiring your new accessories without even dropping the headliner.
Tags: aluminum, amateur, antenna, cb, cb radio, Discovery, HAM radio, Land Rover, light, lights, radio
Posted in LR Discovery | 1 Comment
September 10th, 2009, 20:16 hours
Columbia Rovers Aluminum Fuel Tank Skid offers 1/4-inch of fuel tank protection at only 18 pounds of added bulk. I’ll admit, I’m still a skeptic of aluminum when it comes to protecting a two-ton truck from rock damage, but recent conversations with other off-roading experts have convinced me to give it a try. I’ve opted to do this test with a fuel tank skid, since there is not one available from the factory, and it is not a place I would consider in the least bit vulerable (in 5 years of wheeling a Discovery, I have never hit the fuel tank).
This ultra-light skid is currently available for first and second generation Land Rover Discoverys, and the Range Rover Classic, from Columbia Rovers for $275 plain or $300 powder coated in black. Installation is extremely easy (on a Discovery 2) and can be done by one person with two jack stands, a floor jack, and a couple 2×4s in about 30 minutes. You’ll need a 13mm socket for the two rear bolts and a 15mm for the front two.
25 gallons of fuel is heavy. The first thing you will want to do is go for a drive. If you have a full tank, a long drive. Carry a fuel can full of extra fuel and drive until well after the low fuel light comes on and you think you have about a gallon left, then head home and let the truck cool off (you’ll be under the truck working next to the exhaust). You’ll need to be careful to make sure that the fuel tank doesn’t drop more than an inch or so while you’re swapping the factory strap for the new skid plate, which is why you want it to be as empty (light) as possible. The easiest way to do this is to put yourself under the fuel tank and hold it up with your knees while you slide the strap out, the skid in, and get the bolts back into the rear end (leave them loose). After that it is an easy task to hold up the front end of the fuel tank and skid while you put the front nuts back in place and tighten them down. Then, go back to the back and finish tightening the rear bolts.
The skid seems well built and the finish is perfect. Overall I’d give it 5-stars, though I haven’t had it out on the trail yet. For strength, all I can say is that it certainly does well supporting the weight of the vehicle from the center of the skid when used as a jacking point to raise the rear of the vehicle. I have a trip to the Mojave National Preserve scheduled for later this month, so with any luck I’ll have the opportunity to bash it on a few rocks and see how it holds up.
April 17th, 2009, 10:38 hours
Rating: 4 / 5
Pros:
Inexpensive, sturdy, bright pencil beam, runs cool
Cons:
Limited close-range use due to narrow beam and high output, shiny housing, made in China, lacks the “quality feel” of Surefire and Fenix
The Bottom Line:
The price factored heavily into the rating, but it is still a nice light. All things considered I would buy it again. However the Fenix T1, despite it’s odd shape and size, is still the best bang for the buck in my collection.
In search of a cheap, yet powerful, LED light to mount on my (cheap) shotgun I stumbled upon the Ultrafire C2 at Deal Extreme. For a mere $18 (and another $6 for the remote pressure switch) I figured why not. Afterall, it is rated at 210 lumens and is getting great reviews (this is not the first time I had heard of Ultrafire).
The flashlight is quite light, much nicer to carry compared to the bulky Fenix T1, but I doubt it is nearly as strong as a Surefire. Still, it seems solidly built and does not rattle at all. The C2 is a very simple single-mode light, with a switch that is on par with most other tactical lights on the market. I did find the switch a little tougher to operate with my thumb as it is recessed into the body a little more than on other lights. The switch also lacks the ability to function momentarily by pressing it slightly, which I found rather disappointing. It will handle voltage inputs from 3.6 to 9 volts, and is designed to run on two CR123A lithium batteries or one 18650 battery. Batteries can be inserted from either end of the flashlight as both ends unscrew easily. The light lacks a pocket clip, but includes a lanyard. With a lens/reflector assembly this big, you probably wouldn’t want this light in your pocket or on your belt anyhow. The finish is strong, and yes, it is really that shiny. When running, the flashlight’s housing takes about three times as long to heat up as the Fenix and Surefire models tested, and it does not get nearly as hot. I am guessing this is due to the extra space between the LED and the housing.
The beam pattern leaves some to be desired as a multi-function light or a weapon light. While the distance of it’s throw is excellent, it is a true “pencil” pattern and is best suited to long range use. It would do well mounted to a mountain bike as a headlamp. The peripheral is not totally non-existant, but the brightness of the spot tends to take away from it. After having the four test lights out side by side I am tempted to carry the Ultrafire C2 in my truck and instead put the more flood-like Surefire L4 on the shotgun.
November 19th, 2008, 10:31 hours
Rating: 4.5 / 5
Pros:
Comfortable and light, long runtime, common AAA batteries, perfect general work/path lighting output
Cons:
Red filter is ineffective, producing a bright orange light with lots of white bleed; only one output level
The Bottom Line:
This is a great headlight, however for only $5 more the Tactikka Plus has an extra LED, strobe setting and 3 output levels.
It took forever to get this in from Botach (seriously, don’t order ANYTHING but closeout items from them if you need it this year), but they had the best price by a good 20% and were the only place I could find that carries the camo version (the other one is black with big ugly white logos): Petzl Tactikka @ Botach.
The light itself has been upgraded from the unit pictured on the site, and has the Tactikka Plus style ratchet adjustment for tilting the light to the preferred angle. Granted we didn’t come anywhere close to using them for the advertised 110-hour runtime, but they did not fade at all on a 5 hour night hike (actually, the return leg of a 10 hour hike). They are light enough to be comfortable despite running on 3 AAAs, and are adjustable from helmet-size all the way down to thigh size.
Their built-in red filter is kind of a joke, ending up with a bright orange and a lot of white bleed out the sides. It is handy for working on something up close I suppose, though the white light is not terribly overpowering. While I still grab for my Surefire to investigate sounds or search along the side of the trail, for hiking/climbing/running it is the perfect amount of illumination for the path to see where you are going and not white-out your night vision.
In action, tested between 30 and 50 feet (click the image for details):
January 12th, 2008, 10:15 hours
Rating: 4 / 5
Pros:
Searing 225-lumen output in a small package, good runtime, durable, 2 output levels, spare parts included, price
Cons:
Bulky and a little heavy, twist-select for light output feels “grainy”, orange button, no filters or accessories, odd shape limits mounting options
The Bottom Line:
A great first attempt at a tactical flashlight from Fenix, I look forward to seeing what they come up with next.
Not bad for their first tactical entry. The light is a bit on the heavy side, but really no heavier or larger than a comparable-output Surefire of the same class. Both brand’s entries in this category are too big for pocket carry. The low output setting is pretty bright, but dim enough to be useful in tight quarters. Twisting over to the 225-lumen “turbo” mode is easy, but unfortunately cannot be done one-handed. The built-in clip is sturdy, and as promised the light will stand on end to act as a candle. This works on even a slightly tilted surface despite it’s forward-heavy balance. The “olive” color is definitely a natural olive, not the traditional camo green, and has a significant amount of “gold” in it. Still, it’s a pretty well subdued color and shouldn’t be a problem. Black is also available, on a limited trial-run. The light feels reasonably sturdy, but not nearly as much as a comparable Surefire unit. I’m not sure how much pressure it would take to crush the light, or how big of a fall it could take. The orange tail-cap bothers me a little as well – tactical lights are not to be seen until they are used and orange just doesn’t mesh well with this logic.
I don’t have a 225-lumen capable Surefire at my disposal, so I was unable to compare on even ground. I did run it side-by-side with my 100-lumen Lumamax L4 though, and while certainly brighter I’m not convinced of it’s “more than twice as bright” rating. The other drawback is the lack of available filters and other accessories for the front bezel. Still, when you consider the price is less than a third that of it’s Surefire counterpart, this is a very nice tactical light. Fenix also throws in 3 extra washers, a lanyard, an extra (orange) switch cover and a carry pouch that will work on a belt or clip on to other gear.
All said and done, this is an excellent light with good build quality and a fair price. The number one thing they should work on is getting us a design that supports different color filters. I give it 4.5/5 and recommend it to anyone in need of a good, bright tactical light but unsure of Surefire’s outrageous price tag.
I picked up this unit from Fenix-Store.com with the 4sevens LightBar I ordered, as I said excellent shipping turnaround.
In both output shots below, the Fenix T1 Tactical is on the left at 225 lumens, with a Surefire Lumamax L4 on the right at 100 lumens.
December 14th, 2007, 13:41 hours
Rating: 5 / 5
Pros:
Durable, waterproof, crushproof, bright, long battery life
Cons:
A little big for a keychain, price
The backorder on my Glo-Toob™ Lithium finally came in yesterday after a month of waiting. I was initially surprised at just how much bigger the new ‘toob has to be to accommodate the larger 123A battery, this one will no doubt be too big for many people’s keychains. Since I keep little else on my keychain, I find the increased size isn’t a problem.
In The Box
This lithium version comes with the push-button cap, quick-release neck lanyard and 3500-meter waterproof cap, along with a protective cover for whichever cap is not in use. The waterproof cap is similar in appearance to the standard cap on the FX model, but is designed to prevent the accidental activation the older model often experienced from twisting on it’s attachment point. Instead, the switch is a separate part that spins independently from the base.
Comparison
Well, as I mentioned before it is a little bigger… by about a third. It is also much brighter. In fact, at full power it is so bright that concealed use in some situations might be a problem – though the 25% power-mode is quite reasonable. It also sports 11 different lighting modes, whereas the FX only has 7. The increased lifespan of the 123A battery is a plus, and despite the increased brightness runtime is extended to a total of 30-100 hours. The only real downside on this unit is going to be price. The FX can be picked up for under $20, whereas the Lithium costs upwards of $40.
Given the increased output and runtime, I’ll probably order one in white to replace the standard Glo-Toob™ I use on my hiking staff.
August 15th, 2007, 18:38 hours
Rating: 4.5 / 5
Pros:
Bright, good runtime, useful multi-purpose beam pattern, durable
Cons:
Gets hot during prolonged use, price
My usual impatience waiting on transcontinental warranty service has rewarded me with yet another flashlight. I’ll admit for some time now I’ve wanted to see what all the fuss was about, and if a land-use flashlight with a triple-digit price tag could really be justified. While I’m still not completely convinced on the price, I really like this flashlight – so much in fact, that it’s found its way to daily carry in my pocket instead of the originally intended spot in my bag. It’s small enough to slip quite nicely into a pocket or onto the accessory strap of a certain tactical pant I’m fond of, despite having a better field of vision and brighter output than its Inova counterpart. The optional filters also make a good (and cheap) lens protector while it’s in your pocket, and protect you from the heat after use – and it does get quite hot. Fortunately, it is clearly designed to handle such heat and the unit is just as bright now as it was on day one. The only thing I don’t like about the flashlight is the lack of a rear lanyard attachment point, but as a “pocket” light I haven’t been using a lanyard anyhow.
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