Carbonate Gulch
May 16th, 2010, 17:37 hoursThis has been an absolutely wonderful trip so far for reptile viewing. Lizards of all shapes, sizes and colors have paused long enough and often enough for great photo opportunities. Many of them have even let me get close enough to use the little backup pocket-camera I’ve been limited to since my SX200 died. While packing up camp this morning we noticed a Mojave brown rattlesnake taking a nap, right in the middle of camp!
Today was Joe’s turn to lead us up Carbonate Gulch, a canyon I’ve driven partially in the past. After making a turn out of the wash (which I missed the last time) we passed by several cabins and remains of an old cable tram before reaching the main site. Old engines, massive pulleys, cables, several foundations, scattered debris and even a dripping spring all sit at the top of the road. Most of the good stuff is right next to the road, but the main shaft looks to be about a mile’s hike up the mountain – not something we’re up for today.
After saying our farewells we stopped for a look around the mine at Windy Point. Windy Point was… windy. Very windy. I checked out the main shaft this time, but about 50 feet down it has been deliberately collapsed. Even at this short distance, it is at least 25° cooler than the hot wind outside.
Cadiz Valley
May 15th, 2010, 23:10 hoursThe morning brought more of this perfect desert summer. Its odd, my body somehow knows I am “home” and wakes me up with the sun, rested and relaxed, every time I’m on the road. Normally, I’m lucky if an alarm clock will get me out of bed before 08:30. Today, we’re packed, fed and ready to go before 08:00.
Our agenda for today took us by the unknown ruin just to the west of National Chloride’s Amboy facility known only as “that round cabin by the lava”, to Roy’s Cafe for some cold Route Beer 66 (root beer), across Bristol Dry Lake to Calumet Mine, and out to Cadiz Dunes before heading for camp in Skeleton Pass. While I’m always happy to go it alone, it was nice to have the company of like-minded folks for a change.
At Calumet we found the mine shaft occupied by a family of hawks, so we kept our distance and took to exploring the surrounding ruins. There isn’t much information available about this place beyond that they were mining gold in these unlikely sand and mud hills. There is a rumor that one man did make out on the claim, but it is more likely his profit came from a foolish buyer, not gold.
The wilderness boundary at Cadiz Dunes has been expanded since the last time I visited, though I’m not sure if the actual border was moved on paper or if it was just a lazy federal employee that felt like marking the road half a mile short. The result was a long and very hot hike through the sand to get up on the dunes. The pictures were worth it.
Shortly after setting up camp I started to regret the sunny 100° sand hike from this afternoon, and had to skip dinner for some much needed rest. Next time, perhaps I’ll listen when my body tells me something is a bad idea… perhaps not. 
Wonder Valley
May 14th, 2010, 19:59 hoursIt never ceases to amaze me how a campfire will, without fail, single someone out from the group at which to hurl plumes of smoke. It does not matter what side of the fire they move to, whether it is calm or windy, or if the fire is large or small. Tonight, that someone is me…
I love summer in the desert. The days are just hot enough to drive out all but the heartiest of tourists, the nights are warm and calm – perfect camping conditions. Tonight is one of those perfect nights, no wind, just cold enough for a fire, and a small group of friends looking forward to tomorrow’s drive.
Navajo Expedition: Headed Home
May 2nd, 2010, 13:23 hours
We opted to skip breakfast at camp, not so much for the light snow that was coming down, but the fact that the rest of the group had to make it all the way back to Los Angeles today. It was warmer this morning than yesterday… at least it felt that way, maybe because there was no wind? Either way, a little snow was a great way to end the trip. I’m also very glad it was cold enough for snow, as it would have been much harder to pack up in rain.
Mc Donald’s has changed their pancake recipe – it’s actually pretty good. Their “Mc Cafe” coffee is total crap though.
I finally got my crumb doughnuts…
Navajo Expedition: May 1st
May 1st, 2010, 17:07 hours
Betatakin was an easy hike down over a typical NPS-style trail with a restroom at each end. The ruins are fairly large, and in good shape at each end (a rock shelf gave way in the center taking much of the village with it). Unfortunately, you can only walk into a small portion of the collapsed area. The hike back up is a 750-foot elevation gain, but easy terrain. This is a great place to stop if you are unable to hire a guide, or lack a vehicle capable of reaching the more remote ruins. Both this guided hike and the adjacent Sunset View Campground we stayed in are free of charge.
Navajo Expedition: April 30th
April 30th, 2010, 19:30 hours
Lazy morning, felt good after the past week of at-dawn action. After a couple hours of relaxation and breakfast around a morning campfire we headed up past Goulding to drop off Carlos. If you are ever up in the Monument Valley area looking for a guide I highly recommend Simpson’s Trailhandler Tours, and specifically, Carlos.
The sheep out here do not look, and do not wait for anyone or anything… not even a convoy of 4×4s.
After a quick lunch in Kayenta, we reached Navajo National Monument and set up an early camp. We’ll be hiking down to Betatakin tomorrow, as Keet Seel is still closed. It is cold up here on the mountain, and in typical NPS fashion no campfires are allowed. An early dinner and early bed are on the agenda tonight. Tomorrow’s hike to Betatakin starts at 09:30.
Gear Thoughts
I find myself waiting for the Helton-based shower rather than using the available Zodi system. While you do have to keep the vehicle running to heat the water, I find I much prefer the output of the marine pump, the variable (or off) flow allowed by the heat exchanger, and the added wind protection being right up against a vehicle. With the Zodi, there isn’t a lot of pressure and you must have the water on the entire time, as stopping the water will burn up the heating coils. This means it takes longer to get wet, longer to rinse off, and you waste water when you’re washing and don’t need it. I ended up using the same amount of water on each system, despite the higher output of the marine pump. The increased cost (tripple) is worth the added comfort and control, and vehicle dependence is really a non-issue when you consider the fact that the vehicle is probably going to be sitting there anyhow in a situation where you would use the shower.
On shower enclosures, at least in cold weather, I found I also preferred the PETT system’s tent over Outback’s Porta-Privy. The Porta-Privy has a large, always-open skylight that lets all of the heat escape – a very bad thing when you are showering in 40° weather. The PETT tent has three windows which can be left open or closed, and are designed such you can toss the shower sprayer into one so the excess water drips outside while you are drying off.
Navajo Expedition: April 29th
April 29th, 2010, 22:39 hoursYesterday’s wind was followed by a 25° drop in temperature and a sprinkling of snow, making for a beautiful and dust-free return to Monument Valley. We set off from Mexican Hat after a wonderful breakfast at The Olde Bridge Grille. We will definitely be back this way, as the town is a perfect spot to base future explorations around southeast Utah. Today was a short day today with much of our sight seeing done from or very near the vehicles. The area of Monument Valley known as Mystery Valley is full of pictographs, small ruins, natural arches/bridges and slot canyons to explore. The place is a maze of rock, sand and history.
An early camp at Rain God Mesa made for a welcome rest and conversation around the campfire, and time to catch up on the trip’s highlights thus far.
The last remnants of the storm passed just to the west of us, making for a beautiful sunset…
Food: Dave made an excellent dessert tonight by grilling thin slices of mango, then covering them with honey. This combination of heat and honey changes the texture and brings out the flavor and sugar of the mango, and the peel makes the perfect bowl. The result is what candy would be if you could harvest it from a tree and grill it over a fire.
Navajo Expedition: April 28th
April 28th, 2010, 20:50 hours
Morning brought us up through the tourist-saturated area around The View Hotel, giving us a welcome stop at a grocery store for resupply. Still no sign of my Hostess Crunch doughnuts, I really should have bought some when we stopped in Flagstaff. The rest of the day on into early evening we traveled through even more expansive dunes, cliffs, and slickrock trails with one added obstacle – an ever worsening dust storm.
We’ve reached the top of Hunts Mesa at what seems to be the peak of the storm. The weather radio reports it will not pass until sometime after 21:00. A search of several potential campsites reveals none with shelter from the sand-blasting, made worse by the many dunes up here on the mesa. It would seem the local hotels are in cahoots with the weather, with rates starting at $195. Carlos mentions he knows a good place for us to stay in his home town of Mexican Hat, so we’re heading for the Utah border.
The San Juan Inn & Trading Post, Carlos’ recommendation for “camp” and dinner, turned out to be this perfect little 2-story structure clinging to the cliffs over the San Juan river. As it is just outside the reservation, the restaurant (The Olde Bridge Grille) serves alcohol. As it is in Utah, they have Polygamy Porter. They also have excellent food… 
Navajo Expedition: April 27th
April 27th, 2010, 21:43 hoursI almost regret the shower I took after dinner last night, I was still cold from it when I woke up. Still, it was better than being stinky all day today. Between the cold and my sore feet from yesterday’s hike I’m looking forward to the drive down into the desert this morning.
We were on time arriving at the meeting place for our next guide today, but he was running a little late so we had time to resupply and relax a little. Note: gas stations in the Navajo Nation cut off debit cards at $35, so make sure your tank is actually full when the pump shuts off. At first glance, our guide arrived dressed just like any everyday city folk you’d see waiting in line at a Starbuck’s, but both his knowledge of ruin locations and ability to entertain 4×4-equipped adventurers quickly became apparent. Not 20 minutes later Carlos (our guide) was guiding us over dunes and slickrock in search of a passable route to Poncho House ruin.
The ruins themselves were nothing short of spectacular. Multi-story walls and “streets” remained on the cliff face – all within reach after a short climb. I pushed myself a little too hard hiking here, but a little overheating was well worth it to rest in the shade of this place.
Our departure took us the long way around and into Monument Valley, with opportunities for even more rock, sand and cross-country route finding. The final descent into Monument Valley took us through the strangest cattle guard which had a bar welded over the top allowing only 94 inches of clearance. Several vehicles had to remove cargo from the roof to make it through.
The end of the road found us at one of the tour company’s (Simpson’s Trailhandler Tours) hogans for fry bread, Navajo tacos (a good tostada on fry bread), and a dance performance which included drums and vocals by Carlos (who happens to have an incredible voice). We left dinner for a campsite right up against the north face of Rain God Mesa.
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